![]() I wish I would have pressed him on it when he was here originally. Yeah, #8 for 30A continuous draw with a 40A breaker makes sense. And yes the Leaf should charge for more than 2 hours continuously (assuming a healthy battery). ![]() You are temporarily safe, but the equipment has been wired in a way which limits it below its maximum rating. load) WOULD SUFFICE with this note: How did this "electrician" know that your 2012 had only a 3300 watt charger? The proper method is to use the maximum rating of the equipment (30 amp) and feed it with #8's on a 2P 40A breaker. load), and in situation #2 (12 Leaf) a #10 awg conductor protected by a 2P 30 amp breaker ( max 24 amp cont. therefore in situation 1 (13 Leaf) you would run a #8 awg conductor protected by a 2P 40a breaker (max 32 amp cont. #10 awg wire will happily conduct 30 amps all day, however the 30 amp breaker protecting that wire will not like life if the draw is more than 80% of 30 amps= 24 amps on a continuous basis ( more than 1 hour in a 2 hour period). The specs according to the link say's "average amps 30" no idea what that means, however being a master electrician I can tell you this: The 13 Leaf charger is 6600 watts /240 volts = 27.5 amps, on a 2012 it may be 3300 watts/240volts =13.75 amps. So, does anyone know if #10 copper is safe/up to code for a "continuous" load in this case? Or, should I ask him to come back out and re-install using #8 copper? I think the actual current requirement would be a bit less at 28A, but I want to be safe here and not risk a fire or anything. Especially with temperatures still in the 90's. In any case, now that we are looking to trade in our 2012 with a 3.6 kW charger and buy a 2015 with the 6.6kW charger (and probably in the next day or so), I'm a bit worried that the #10 copper isn't sufficient/safe for the EVSE installation. I asked him about that (because as I recall the instructions said #8 copper or aluminum) and he said that #10 copper is fine to carry 30A (this is what dryers use too, apparently).įast forward to a couple of months ago and during our PV install I was talking to their electrician and he said that loads that run for >2 hours are considered "continuous" loads and thus you need to derate their conductor carrying capacity by some factor (I think 20%)? 203670265 ) a few years ago and had our electrician install it for our 2012.Īfter he installed it, I was cleaning up some debris left over and noticed some scraps form his install were #10 copper wire. At the other end of the scale you can find super-flexible 200☌ silicone wire with 680 strands or much thinner PTFE or PTFE/Kapton wire, also with a 200☌ rating.īut any of these wires should be okay enough if you get your crimps and any soldered joints made properly (the HD wire will tend to eventually break strands and fail if it bends much though).Ī burned connector is usually a result of the connector contacts being loose or the crimp to the wire being defective (typically as a result of an improper tool being used).I bought a Gen 2 Schneider EVLink charger (Gen 2.5 here, for reference. Your wire is rated at 90☌ and has only 7 strands so it's pretty stiff. In fact you might prefer to have a bit of heating and higher rated insulation and lighter, more flexible wire. 6' of it will drop only about 0.4V at 40A, which means you're not losing much to heating even at full rated motor current. You can see from this that AWG 12 (~2mm) is okay for 41A "chassis wiring". ![]() The ratings for wire and not exactly cut and dried, unless you're subject to electrical code for home wiring or something like that.
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